When 22-year-old Carlos Alcaraz stepped onto Centre Court last week for his first-round match against Fabio Fognini at Wimbledon, both sports and fashion fans were quick to note that his choice of knitwear felt familiar.
That’s because the defending champion was clearly channelling one of his idols, tennis legend Roger Federer, by wearing a white cardigan made by his sponsor, Nike.
Anyone who watched tennis in the 2000s will remember the Swiss player’s penchant for chunky white knitwear – most notably, the bespoke Nike cardigan he wore for the 2008 Wimbledon final against Rafael Nadal, featuring gold piping and an “RF” monogram.
Completely custom-made, the piece was designed by Jason Badden in collaboration with Federer’s then-sponsor, Nike, and sparked a major fashion moment.
Men have worn cardigans to play tennis since the 1930s, throwing them on during cooler weather or while warming up. Thanks to the sport’s popularity among the upper classes, cardigans have also become associated with the kind of preppy style epitomised by American designers like Ralph Lauren – who releases a new collection around Wimbledon each year – and European playboys such as Gianni Agnelli.
As a result, they’ve become one of those ultimate “quiet luxury” wardrobe items that might make the average man baulk.
So, how do you pull off a tennis cardigan if you don’t have the physique – or the sun-kissed glow – of a tennis pro or international playboy?
“The fit is the most important thing for me,” shares menswear stylist Nick Hems.
“You don’t want it to be too oversized, or too tight, it needs to fit just right. At the moment, in terms of the length, you can choose between something slightly more fashionable, with a boxy fit that ends at the waist, or something longer and more traditional, which would typically hit at the mid-fly instead. Which you go for entirely depends on how fashionable you are, and perhaps how old you are too.”
Fabric is another major consideration, with Hems favouring chunkier knits – like Federer’s classic 2008 cardigan. Look for cable knits, ribbing, or pointelle finishes rather than straightforward lightweight cotton, and play up the contrasts by pairing your cardigan with different textures.
A great example was seen at Wimbledon yesterday – in the Royal Box – when actor Andrew Garfield wore his knit tied around his neck against a crisp white shirt.
In terms of the rest of your outfit, Hems suggests wearing a cardigan with a contrasting piece underneath, albeit avoiding anything too out there. “It looks nicer if it’s purposeful,” he explains. “If you’re wearing a statement piece like a cardigan, you want that to be the focal point. Don’t lose it amongst prints or loud colours. Pare back the rest of the outfit and let the cardigan be the hero – especially if it’s got great detailing like colourful embroidery, piping or a crest.”
A complimentary colour, such as an off-white or cream, would look great underneath a cardigan like that worn by Alcaraz, especially considering the holing detail on his sleeves.
To avoid looking like a relic of the indie sleaze movement, you should definitely do up your buttons, too. “My top tip is to have the bottom button undone,” shares Hems. “Not only does it look better aesthetically, but it stops the cardigan from pulling around your waist. If it’s done up, it also looks more formal too – you can go to the top button or have that undone if you want to look slightly more relaxed. In terms of your sleeves, I’d keep them rolled down, unless you’ve got a watch sponsor to show off of course…”
If you’re looking to buy one now, Hems recommends checking out Ralph Lauren, Lacoste and Fred Perry for classic sporty options. For something a bit more directional, try Sandro, Ami Paris, or Thom Browne. When it comes to caring for your knitwear, always fold it rather than hang it to avoid stretching the shoulders, and try to avoid washing it too often, as this can damage the fabric.